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Vintage buying

We buy your vintage watch — valued on how much of it is still original.

Originality decides, not condition: an unpolished case, an untouched dial, the correct hands and crown.

Cartier Santos Dumont from the late 1930s — square gold case with a screwed bezel, cream dial, Roman numerals and blued hands
Cartier Santos DumontLate 1930s · gold case, sapphire cabochon

Please read first

The three most expensive mistakes before selling

Do not have it polished

Polishing removes metal. Sharp edges are then gone for good. Scratches cost less.

Do not have it serviced

Routine services swap hands, crown, crystal or rotor for new parts. If needed: after the sale, and demand the old parts back.

Do not refinish the dial

A reprint can halve the value. Patina and aged luminous material are sought after.

Assessment

What we look at first

  1. Case & edges

    Ever polished? Edges sharp, bevels visible, markings legible? Usually the largest single item in the price.

  2. Dial & luminous material

    Original or reprinted, evenly aged, lume matching the hands. Gilt and tropical command premiums.

  3. Movement & calibre

    Right calibre, untouched bridges and screws. We open the watch in front of you.

  4. Provenance & papers

    Invoice, service booklet, archive extract. Even fragments lift the price.

Through our hands

Pieces that were actually here

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar, reference 5140P-013

Patek Philippe

Perpetual Calendar

5140P-013

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, reference 5056P-001

Patek Philippe

Annual Calendar

5056P-001 · 2007

Patek Philippe Aquanaut, reference 5064A-001

Patek Philippe

Aquanaut

5064A-001 · 2007

Photographs of pieces from the Bonn Luxury stock.

Actively wanted

References we will take at any time

Patek Philippe

Nautilus

3700

First series, Gérald Genta case

Patek Philippe

Nautilus

3800

Original bracelet and clasp

Patek Philippe

Ewiger Kalender

3940

With archive extract

Patek Philippe

Ewiger Kalender Chronograph

3970

Complete set, additional caseback

Rolex

Cosmograph Daytona

6263

Dial variant decides everything

Rolex

Prince (Duo-Dial)

3937

Rectangular case, unpolished

Audemars Piguet

Royal Oak

5402

Early A-series number

Eras

Three periods we assess separately

1920–1945

Early wristwatches, pocket watches, enamel dials. The movement counts for more than the case.

1945–1969

The most sought-after period: gilt dials, early divers, hand-wound chronographs on Valjoux and Lemania movements.

1969–1985

Automatic chronographs, angular cases, coloured dials. Long overlooked.

Makers

Including houses almost nobody remembers

Universal Genève, Gallet or Enicar reach collector prices you would not guess.

  • Rolex
  • Patek Philippe
  • Omega
  • Heuer
  • Universal Genève
  • Longines
  • Audemars Piguet
  • Vacheron Constantin
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre
  • Zenith
  • IWC Schaffhausen
  • Breitling
  • Gallet
  • Movado
  • Eberhard & Co.
  • Enicar
  • Doxa
  • Tudor

Common questions

What comes up most often with vintage

Dial, caseback and a side view are enough for a first opinion.

Please don’t. Polishing removes metal, a service swaps original parts, a refinished dial can halve the value. Bring it as it is — dusty and stopped is fine.

No. Both lift the price noticeably; their absence is never a reason to say no.

Yes. A stopped movement, torn strap, damaged crystal or water ingress lower the price but do not rule out a purchase.

Nothing. The examination and offer are free and carry no obligation, including if you decide not to sell.

Yes. For large collections we come to you by arrangement, in Bonn and within roughly 50 km.